I have a GSM shield V2 for Arduino, and I want some buzzer to make some noise when there is an incoming call. At this link http://www.thaieasyelec.net/archives/Manual/M10_HD_V1.00.pdf page 44 I found that by connecting a simple transistor and a buzzer to the actual "buzzer" pin I should be able to produce sound. I tried and that does not work as expected, all I get is noise from the GND of the shield, that typical GSM noise that everyone know of.
I also tried to connect another arduino as to analog read the buzzer signal, but I get nothing that look like a ringing tone.
Has anyone any idea? Did I forget to setup some things software wise? So far it seems that the buzzer behaviour is completely unrelated to anything code wise, there is just that "buzzer" pin, and that's it, nothing more to set up.
Any help would be much appreciated !
Cheers
Here's a great beeper/alarm part I've used in a couple of recent projects. It is loud but can be muffled. It's self-driving, so all you have to do it supply it enough current at its rated voltage, like through a transistor or Darlington. It has a wide voltage range, and runs great from 3.3V up to 20, So it's ideal for microcontroller projects at 3.3V or 5V. No need to fiddle with timers or PWM to make it beep. Try out this great part.. Drive it from any output pin to a small-signal transistor with a beta of 50 or better and you'll be good to go. Turn output pin on, it starts. Turn output pin off, it stops. I made mine "chirp" like the alarm on a car security system. Easiest thing in the world.
Related
I'm currently working on a project involving a GPRS Shield based on Sim 900 Chip
I was wondering if anyone would know which ones are the VIN Pin and the RING pin ?
It doesn't say on the board itself and all other searches have lead me to a dead end.
Also if you have a detailed pin layout it would be much appreciated.
Thank you
The GPRS shield is the one in the link below
http://imgur.com/a/1a2gx
Ring Pin
If you have a Multimeter with continuity testing, check where the RI pin (#4) on the Sim 900 chip is broken out to. Here is an overview of the pins:
If it isn't (some shields don't have them broken out) you could solder a wire to the RI pin with an LED and resistor to Ground, something like this:
[RI Pin]--------[wire]--------[LED]--------[Resistor (330Ohms?)]--------[Ground]
The ring indicator is HIGH by default and LOW when there is an incoming call. So, when there is no call the LED is on and off when there is an incoming call.
VIN
When the position of the switch (middle left in the image below) is set to "extern" (right), you have to supply power to the barrel connector. When you set the switch to the left position, the module takes power from the 5V pin of the arduino OR (dont attach both!) an external power supply you attach to that pin.
Hope it helps :)
PS: These SIM modules can have current peaks up to 2 Amps. I recommend you to use an external power source that can provide minimum 2A at 5V.
Edit:
This might be helpful:
http://wiki.seeed.cc/GPRS_Shield_v1.0/. I think its the same module as yours. Have a look at the "GPRS Shield v1.4 Schematic" at the bottom of the page.
Edit 2:
Comparing the board from the link and yours, i'm very certain that the ring pin is the one marked in red in the image above. Checking with a multimeter doesnt hurt though. You can add the same circuit i described above to that pin to add an LED indicator.
I am using an arduino uno and I am trying to control a motor with two inputs which I found in a small car I used to have as a child.
I connected the first pin of the motor to the arduino ground and the second one to the VCC and the motor started turning.
However, when I write the following code the motor doesn't work.
void setup() {
pinMode(8,OUTPUT);
digitalWrite(8,HIGH);
}
void loop() {
}
(I have connected the first pin of the motor to the ground and the second one to pin 8 of arduino).
Does anybody know why that happens?
You can only get a certain amount of current from an Arduino output pin. In general, you can light an LED with a direct connection to an output pin, but motors require more current. A detailed discussion is here.
To control a device such as a motor which needs more current than the output pin can provide directly, you can use an external transistor. You can buy circuits that implement this idea, such as this Motor Shield for Arduino.
This is not how Arduino is supposed to work with power consuming stuff (like mhopeng said, you may use LED in such a scheme, but not something more consuming): a motor should be between GND and 5V and if you want to control it, you have to use a transistor connected to an output pin.
I had a similar question once, it may be of help, too. Also, it may be a good idea to ask further questions at arduino.SE.
I have a weird problem. I am currently building a BB-8. Therefore, I am using an Arduino Uno. On top, I have stacked an Adafruit Motor Shield v2.3 and, again, on top of this, I have stacked the Sparkfun USB Host Shield. The Arduino is powered by a 9V-Block battery, the motors are powered separately by two 18650 Li-Ion batteries. To control the two Pololu motors, which have a stall current of 1.6 amps each, I use a Xbox 360 wireless controller, where the receiver is connected to the USB Host Shield.
Now to my problem. Every seems to work fine, until i cover everything with a styrofoam hemisphere. Yes, you've read right. If that happens, the controller signals is lost and does not connect again, unless I restart the Arduino. I have uploaded a small video on youtube, where you can see the problem.
I guess, this is a power problem, since this issue does not occur, when I connect the Xbox receiver to my Mac. Has anyone an idea, how to solve this problem?
I already tried another power source. And the USB host shield should give enough power, since the specs are saying, that 500 mA is no problem, and hit is exactly the USB 2.0 spec. The combination of the shield shouldn't be a problem, too. I carefully chose this shields, because the motor shield is just using the pins A4 and A5, the USB host shield is using some of the digital pins, so I think there is no interference.
Thank you for your help.
EDIT
I have tested it a bit more now and i think i can reduce the probable reasons. First, i tried some other power supplies, from AA batteries on the VIN pin to external power adaptors. Next, i tried other xbox receivers and controllers. I also tried a playstation 3 controller with a Bluetooth dongle. Nothing solved the problem. I also covered the Arduino with other things than styrofoam, like a garbage can, cardboard and some metal box. This worked, so the problem was only with styrofoam. Now i haven't covered the Arduino, but i slowly got closer. About 20 cm from the Arduino, it stopped working. My clue: static electricity. Do you think this can be a problem? And if yes, how can i solve this?
Try use single battery + separate voltage regulators for every load. Otherwise if one of the batteries discharges while other are ok, it can take all power of the system, something like short-circuit. Also you can receive a trouble if do error in ground connections.
Select good battery, which can provide enough power. If cant find a battery which can supply enough current think about using low current batteries in series to achieve extra voltage. Then reduce voltage using dc-dc step down converter.
For example if you have a battery of 24V which provides 1A (power p1 = 24*1). It can provide 5A if reduce the voltage to 5V using dc-dc. (power p2 = 5*5). Because p1*h=p2, where [h=0.8 - efficiency].
So, I solved the problem. As is mentioned in my question, the problem was static electricity. I primed the styrofoam sphere with some special primer to make the styrofoam a little more stable and so on. That's it. Luckily I didn't touch the Arduino with the sphere. I think it would have damaged the Arduino.
When we upload the code on arduino ,sometimes we do not get the desired results.
I saw a friend of mine doing the test on arduino using a multimeter to make sure that the code is right.
He said that we can make sure the code is right by checking the voltages on carious i/o pins on arduino. Like if the voltage on i/o pins is less than 5 V then the code is having some error,and also if we chckt the voltage on RX and Tx pins it should be 0.29 V.
I know question posted by me is not clear, but this is something which worked but i was not able to understand it properly.
So if anybody can deduce what this means and how it is done so, please proide an answer?
There are two main things to test with your multimeter: the voltage of the power to the Arduino (between 5v and Gnd), and the voltage of the IO pins (between them and Gnd).
Voltage of the power supply simply tells you if the Arduino is powered up correctly, if its power management circuits or power supply have failed, you'll be able to pick it up here.
Voltage of the outputs should be either 5v or 0v, relative to ground. By testing the voltage on a pin you can tell whether it is being written high (5v) or low (0v) by the Arduino, hence seeing what the code is doing to the pins.
I should make it clear that there is no right or wrong way to tell if the code in general is working based on the voltage of the pins.
Im a PIC fan. I have not used arduino. but I have got a problems when Im going to control servos with pic.
1) when PIc is controlling the servo it cannot do enything else. so during that period it cannot get the sensor readings.
2) after driving the servo to a certain position and now when the pic is doing something else, the pic does not further more generate the pwm signal in the servo connected pin. so the servo may rotate back due to the load.
now my first question is will arduino genarate the pulse continously in the attached pin after the codes
servo s;
s.attach(13);
s.write(120);
or are there eny librarys to control multi servos using PIC in mikroc to avoid the above mentioned problems.
or is it better to use two PICs one to drive servos only and the other for processing and sensor reading, and connect them using I2C.
please I need help from an expert. please reply. thank you...
Yes the Arduino is able to generate the pwm continuously.
Arduino langage is C/C++ with some build in features like analogWrite()for pwm, which make it really easy to program.
Regarding your "when something is running, it can't do anything else" problem, that's one of the major limitation of the Arduino platform as is. You can overcome those limitations by using ISR (Interrupt Service Routine), timers and hardware interrupts.
If you're comfortable with C/C++, you can also use a Real Time Operating System (RTOS) which lets you run think like a regular operating system would: allow cpu time to each task so fast that they seem to run in parallel. But that's not as easy to use as the basic Arduino features, so think carefully if you really need those functions (scheduler, "multi-task", round rubin, etc.)
Hope it helps!
I am planning a similar project, using a PIC16F872, to control a servo motor. I am thinking of using a 32 kHz crystal to have a PWM suitable, of 35Hz and pulse width centred on 1.05 mS. In my case I will first be doing A/D measurements; then when required running the motor. The motor will have a continuous signal until a 'stop' switch gives an interrupt to the PIC.
I should mention that I have modified the servo for continuous running by disconnecting the feedback pot.