I am trying to verify I have power and verify positive and negative wires from cyberpower plug. I can't get this led to light up. I am going to attach two pictures one of the breadboard setup and one of the power module. The power module has a sliding switch that I have set to 5 volts. The resistor is 680 ohm the power unit is up to 1300 mA.
The long leg of the led is plugged in next to the resistor. I have switched the black and red from positive to negative on the board.
I know this is probably a dumb question but we all have to start somewhere.
Thanks
Mark
Some breadboards have gaps in the middle of the power rails that need to be jumpered. Use a DMM to verify that this is the case on yours.
Well one multi - meter later I discovered that the 5 on the slider of the power supply must have been .5 because when set to 4.5 higher up the scale the multimeter shows 5 volts and everything works. I now have a esp8266 running from a nodemcu .9 devboard running an mqtt client working off the breadboard power subscribing and publishing. which was todays goal.
Thanks everyone.
Related
I have an Arduino starter set, which came with both an active and a passive buzzer. Unfortunately, I can't seem to know which is which. All I know is that one is a little longer than the other one, on which I can see the green circuit board underneath.
An active buzzer generates the sound itself. You basically just turn it on or off.
A passive buzzer needs a signal source that provides the sound signal.
To find out which is which you can measure the resistance between both leads. If it is a few Ohms its the passive one, higher values indicate an active one.
Also the active one will have it's own circuitry (the pcb you can see) and will therefor be probably bigger.
But I guess your arduino package comes with a parts list that should give you all information you need?
"Programatically" speaking:
Active Buzzer: using a simple digitalWrite(buzzerPin, HIGH) will turn the beep on, once it has a internal oscillator.
Passive Buzzer: you need to use Tone() function in order to make it beep. Once it has no internal oscillator you need to use Tone() function to create the frequency it will oscillate. Check the Tone() reference page to learn how to use it, but is quite simple, you just need to enter as parameter pin and frequency like Tone(3, 440), will generate a 440Hz on passive buzzer hooked up to pin 3.
To stop a active buzzer you need to use digitalWrite(buzzerPin, LOW), while with a passive buzzer you need to use noTone(passiveBuzzerPin).
How to distinguish passive buzzer and active buzzer?
There are several ways to distinguish passive buzzer and active buzzer.
The most simple method is to watch their different appearances.If you can see a drive board,it is passive buzzer.If the buzzer is completely covered by black adhesive,it is active buzzer.
https://www.keliking.com/Differences-Between-Passive-Buzzer-and-Active-Buzzer-id570060.html
They come in all shapes and sizes, so don't assume "long" means one thing or another. The passive buzzer has only a small piezo on the module's PCB. An active buzzer will have a couple other small components on the pcb, like an amp and resistor(s).
In the Freenove Arduino kit that i bought, the passive buzzer is the one with the green on the bottom and the active is the one without, and is slightly taller with varied hights of the pins
Physical distinction between the two.
Slight disclaimer first. . . the buzzers I have are from one of those 27 piece sensor kits. For me it was an extra buy from "30 Days Lost In Space". After my pieces all got mixed together, I've decided to lay them all out & know what each one does. Yours may be different
Here's what I observed. If you have the connections down and the buzzer away from you so you're looking at the back of the board There are solder points. The upper left solder point is filled on the active buzzer. note don't count the larger mounting hole on the very edge. In the photo, I've highlighted the filled solder hole on the active buzzer.
highlighted solder point on active buzzer -- left vs passive buzzer -- right
I had this same question, which led me here. The other answers were helpful in and of themselves, but I noticed the difference after testing, and hopefully someday this may help someone else who may be new, as I am now.
I've been at arduino just shy of 2 weeks.
I'm using a SIM808 GSM+GPS module on a LoNet breakout board: http://www.seeedstudio.com/wiki/LoNet_-_GSM/GPRS/GPS_Breakout with an Adafruit Trinket Pro 3V, and everything works.
I've taken care to build in power save modes in my application. I can enable the SIM808 slow clock, so it can sleep with DTR=1, which I call "light sleep" mode. Also there is a "deep sleep" mode, where I set AT+CFUN=0 to further decrease functionality of the SIM808, and power usage. (During deep sleep the RF circuits are off, so no SMS reception..)
I've measured power consumption by measuring the voltage across a 1 ohm resistor in series with the battery.
During normal GSM operation 19-20 mA is used; with slow clock enabled also 19-20 mA, in deep sleep 18-19 mA.
Switching on GPS makes the board use 43-44 mA. I see no difference while acquiring the GPS fix, or when a fix is reached. The wiki page (above) says that continuous tracking takes 24 mA, but apparently that is on top of the 20 mA when just the GSM is used. Indeed 20+24 is 44 mA, the value I measure.
I'm quite disappointed that the sleep conditions don't seem to save any power!
Should I do things like remove the green power LED? The design drawing shows a 470 ohm R in series, so that could save ca 8 mA?
The board does have a battery charging circuit; could that be responsible for the 20 mA base current? When I power down the SIM808 only ca 0.02 mA is used, so I wonder if there is an external circuit responsible for the 20 mA base current. The SIM808 Hardware Docs spec a power consumption of around 1 mA only! - I wish!
I had the same problem like you but on another board.
As you can see at the top of the board below the right one of the two SMA connectors it says: "Active GPS Antenna". And thats the solution to the problem.
When I disconnected the GPS antenna the current dropped to ~670µA without LEDs and when slowclock (AT+CSCLK=1) was enabled, AT+CFUN=0 and DTR pin was high (eg. 3.3V).
So if you want to really make your SIM808 module low power you have to switch the active GPS antenna off with a PMOS.
This image shows the active GPS antenna circuit of my SIM808 Module.
EDIT:
Damn I don't know how to delete or edit a comment... And I can't post more than 2 links, please go to the next links by yourself:
This wiki page (wiki.seeedstudio.com/wiki/LoNet_-_GSM/GPRS/GPS_Breakout) of the LoNet states that: "GPS Antenna: this is an uFL GPS antenna connector. You can connect either passive or active GPS antenna to it. Active GPS antenna runs at 2.8V voltage."
And the schematic (wiki.seeedstudio.com/images/3/37/LoNet_808_Schematic.pdf) shows in the top right corner, that the GPS connector is prepared for an active antenna (the inductor in series with the current limiting resistor).
So if you don't have an active antenna you maybe can just cut the trace between the inductor and the GPS connector.
I don't know what will happen when you are using a passive antenna, you have to try it yourself.
Good luck!
I have a weird problem. I am currently building a BB-8. Therefore, I am using an Arduino Uno. On top, I have stacked an Adafruit Motor Shield v2.3 and, again, on top of this, I have stacked the Sparkfun USB Host Shield. The Arduino is powered by a 9V-Block battery, the motors are powered separately by two 18650 Li-Ion batteries. To control the two Pololu motors, which have a stall current of 1.6 amps each, I use a Xbox 360 wireless controller, where the receiver is connected to the USB Host Shield.
Now to my problem. Every seems to work fine, until i cover everything with a styrofoam hemisphere. Yes, you've read right. If that happens, the controller signals is lost and does not connect again, unless I restart the Arduino. I have uploaded a small video on youtube, where you can see the problem.
I guess, this is a power problem, since this issue does not occur, when I connect the Xbox receiver to my Mac. Has anyone an idea, how to solve this problem?
I already tried another power source. And the USB host shield should give enough power, since the specs are saying, that 500 mA is no problem, and hit is exactly the USB 2.0 spec. The combination of the shield shouldn't be a problem, too. I carefully chose this shields, because the motor shield is just using the pins A4 and A5, the USB host shield is using some of the digital pins, so I think there is no interference.
Thank you for your help.
EDIT
I have tested it a bit more now and i think i can reduce the probable reasons. First, i tried some other power supplies, from AA batteries on the VIN pin to external power adaptors. Next, i tried other xbox receivers and controllers. I also tried a playstation 3 controller with a Bluetooth dongle. Nothing solved the problem. I also covered the Arduino with other things than styrofoam, like a garbage can, cardboard and some metal box. This worked, so the problem was only with styrofoam. Now i haven't covered the Arduino, but i slowly got closer. About 20 cm from the Arduino, it stopped working. My clue: static electricity. Do you think this can be a problem? And if yes, how can i solve this?
Try use single battery + separate voltage regulators for every load. Otherwise if one of the batteries discharges while other are ok, it can take all power of the system, something like short-circuit. Also you can receive a trouble if do error in ground connections.
Select good battery, which can provide enough power. If cant find a battery which can supply enough current think about using low current batteries in series to achieve extra voltage. Then reduce voltage using dc-dc step down converter.
For example if you have a battery of 24V which provides 1A (power p1 = 24*1). It can provide 5A if reduce the voltage to 5V using dc-dc. (power p2 = 5*5). Because p1*h=p2, where [h=0.8 - efficiency].
So, I solved the problem. As is mentioned in my question, the problem was static electricity. I primed the styrofoam sphere with some special primer to make the styrofoam a little more stable and so on. That's it. Luckily I didn't touch the Arduino with the sphere. I think it would have damaged the Arduino.
I have lcd connected to arduino. Everything works fine, lcd shows info properly, but it has very low brightness. I've connected VO via potentiometer to 5 v and even if potentiometer has 0 Ohm, screen has low brightness.
I've tried to use 2 schemes:
1) Using I2C: http://www.instructables.com/id/LCD-display-I2C-adapter-for-Arduino-with-PCF8574A/
2) Direct connection: http://robocraft.ru/blog/arduino/503.html (I think google should translate this)
But result is same.
Could anyone help me please?
In my personal experience with hd44780 lcd's, i connect v0 directly to ground. Yours should not be different; maybe you could try to connect it to 5v, just to be sure the pin is not inverted.
If connecting it to ground makes it work, there is a problem in the potentiometer (or in its wiring). Usually they have 3 pins, the two ones on the sides need to be 5v an gnd, the middle one is your v0
I did it! Thanks for assistance, datasheet for this lcd is horrible...
I'found that A and K contacts are on another side of lcd panel.
I've connect A to 5v and K to ground and I got it.
Thanks!
Hi im new to Arduino Uno
My question is how to turn a stepper motor 90 dgree clockwise only when the infrared censored a something and turn anti-clockwise when the second infrared censored something is pressed again?
Stepper motor
Infrared transmitter/receiver pair
your help will be much appreciated
Thanks
Software and hardware my friend, software and hardware.
First, you'll need to connect your sensors to the Arduino and make sure you can read them reliably. You can write a sketch that outputs the values to the serial port and monitor them on your computer.
Second, you'll need to connect your motor. A stepper motor is going to need a driver, such as the "Adafruit Motor/Stepper/Servo Shield for Arduino v2 Kit" (link). This kit has sample code you can use to figure out how to drive the motor.
Then you'd connect these two independent pieces together. Write logic that puts the motor in one position when your sensor is sensing, and another when it's not, or use your second sensor to make the second motion.
Note: Stepper motors and the drivers are expensive and maybe not what you really want. For one thing, they use relative motion, not absolute position. If they miss steps (due to hitting something or being manually moved) then they remain in the wrong position until you fix them.
A cheaper and perhaps better solution is to use a hobby servo. They are cheap and use absolute positioning, which means that when you tell them to go somewhere they will always try to get to that position. Also, you can drive them directly from the Arduino without a driver board. One of the built-in Arduino sketches shows how to run them.