Unable to communicate with ESP8266 via Arduino Uno - arduino

I recently bought an ESP8266 (ESP-01, 1M) yet I have been unsuccessful in making it respond at all.
I have attempted to communicate with it using an Arduino Uno running the built-in BareMinimum script (and also the script described here) to work like an FTDI.
However, when any AT commands are sent to it via the Serial Monitor there is no response whatsoever using either approach.
The red power LED is on, yet the blue LED is always off.
My wiring:
GND - GND
RX - RX
TX - TX
VCC - 3v3
CH_PD - 3v3
I would love some clues as to how to solve this error,

Okay, seems like the same problem I spent hours.
Your Arduino TX has a high level of 5V. If you send a message to your ESP with this voltage you will (surely) destroy it. And I think thats happend to you.
So you have to buy a new ESP.
For the next try:
If you use a baudrate of 9600 you can just use two 10kOhm resistors to half your TX voltage. (I did this already and it worked without problems)
For sending a message to your Arduino 3.3V from your ESP are enought.
For higher baudrates you can use a logic level converter: https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/using-the-logic-level-converter

Related

Error in Arduino with Espressif ESP32-CAM [duplicate]

I've just recieved my very first esp32cam (AI THINKER) today and I was excited to test it, but I'm unable to upload any code to it. I'm always getting the following error:
Failed to connect to ESP32: Timed out waiting for packet header
So, the FTDI I'm using is the FT232r with the following wiring scheme
FTDI Wiring
How I reproduce this error:
Plug everything
Order IDE to upload the sketch
Wait for the "connecting" text
Press the RST button
Also:
Plug everything
Press the RST button
Order IDE to upload the sketch
I've already tried:
Switching to 3.3v (plugged on 3.3v pin)
Using external 5v power supply (plugged on 5v pin)
Using another computer
Swapping RX TX
Trying in different upload speeds
Holding RST button
Switching board between ESP32 Wrover Module and AI Thinker ESP32
I'm I doing something wrong or there's just something faulty?
I have delved for a solution in this regard for weeks and it seems I have a solution.
Findings-
FTDI module is probably faulty or not supported for each instance.
Aithinker Board is not compatible with esspressif (use ESP32Wrover, more details below )
I have an esp32cam from Esspressif, not Aithinker.
I was trying with FT232rl , No matter what Voltage/jumpers/USB cable I used, it didn't work. Always stuck with fatal timed out error.
After many futile attempts with FTDI breakout, I gave my Arduino UNO a try (please note my UNO has mega16u2 chip as USB serial chip (top right corner just beside the oscillator) and fortunately it worked.
I have read that CP2102 is also working.
**Here are the steps to follow-**
Arduino ESP32Cam connections
3.3 Arduino --------- 3v Esp32CAM
GND Arduino ------------ GND Esp32CAM
RESET Arduino to Ardunio GND
RX Arduino -------------- VOR Esp32CAM (this is not a mistake RX to rx & TX to tx)
TX Arduino -------------- VOT Esp32CAM
GPIO 0(zero)(written as IO0) Esp32CAM to GND Esp32CAM
I didn't have any need to press the reset button in any part of the operation before & during uploading.
I am assuming You have pre-installed the esp32 board manager.
Now select the correct COM port where your Uno (in this case) is
plugged in.
Select the correct board as mentioned
Tools>Board>ESP32 Arduino > select ESP32 Wrover Module
Some uploading setups are to be Done (Under Tools, these will only appear when the Wrover module is selected )
Upload speed -- 115200
Flash Frequency -- 40Mhz
Flash Mode -- QIO
Partition Scheme --- Huge App
Port ---- select the right com port for your breakout or UNO
JUST press upload and relax
After a while, you will be able to see this message
Leaving...
Hard resetting via RTS pin...
Disconnect the Esp32Cam GPIO 0 and GND
Power the ESP32Cam with 5/3v with external power supply (Arduino or other breakouts may not be able unless you are connected with a Powered USB Hub)
keep TX, RX, & GND of the 2 boards connected, don't disconnect Arduino Reset and GND.
Press Reset on ESPCAM and open Serial monitor and you will be able to see the IP address of the cam if it was configured with your wifi correctly.OR get any network scanner App on android or windows.
I hope it helped.
Pre-requisites for flashing:
ArduinoIDE 1.8.12
Core ESP32 1.04 (at time of writing)
Select board AI Thinker Cam
uplooad speed 921600
freq 240Mhz
flashfreq 80Mhz
mode QIO if not working try DIO
partition scheme default
Serial monitor is closed
NO hardware connected to the pins of the ESPcam
Make sure the USB cable is a data cable and NO loading cable only
check Windows device manager if programmer is shown and has max speed / 8n1 hardware
Connections
FTDI - ESP32
GND GND
5V 5V
TXD UOR
RXD UOT
If you use an AIThinker Cam clone you have to ground GIPO 0:
connect GPIO 0 with a dupont wire connected to GND
press reset
compile and upload (use AI THINKER CAM)
optional:
press reset
upload filesystem data (SPIFFS)
disconnect GPIO 0 and GND
press reset
code should execute
And yes you have to do it every upload, on my dev board I soldered a little switch with proper isolationSome more solutions from experience:
If there is still a problem use a 10K (or so) pull-down resistor between RX0 and GND (test on breadboard before soldering)
Pressing and holding (!) the boot-button while uploading on some "bad" boards
Happened with a "normal" ESP32 board to me - just to be sure - I got an ESP8266 in an ESP32 packaging. Configuring for the ESP8266 solved the issue of uploading.
In my case I forgot to remove the SD card. Other users recommended removing unnecessary connections to the pins-- and the SD card technically uses some of those :)
This was solved by using other jumpers. It seems one of the jumpers used in the wiring was faulty.
If you're having the same issue and tried everything in this post, try checking your cables!
Another solution here. Just to add, I tried everything on this QA, as well as many other things suggested online. e.g. tested by powering from 3.3V then 5V, various permutations of holding the reset button down and disconnecting IO00 from GND at the point of flashing. Changing various settings in Arduino IDE/
I was unable to flash a single one of the 5 ESP32-CAM boards I bought. Spent a good two hours on it. I even continuity tested every pin on the board to its ESP32 chip pad, and all the hookup wires were tested too. The board seemed fine.
Then I soldered a 100uF capacitor between 5V and GND, and used my USB-UART 5V power... tested and worked straight away. No need to pull out the IO00->GND connection and no need to press RST button on the board during flashing. (Of course, pull out IO00->GND after flashing complete.
So - it was a power problem.
I can only guess that the cheapo regulator they used on the copy of board that I got was not quite efficient enough, but basically that capacitor resolved the issue.
p.s. the ESP on board was marked "ESP32-S". I selected "AI Thinker ESP32-CAM" in Arduino IDE as suggested by most people online, and this worked.
There are 3 pins marked GND on the ESP32-CAM board. Buuuuut (!) the one marked GND/R just by the U0T is NOT connected to other grounds or anywhere else I could had find. Check with a multimeter and use a REAL GND. It just worked for me after days of puzzling.
If you try it with arduino it works but its needed to press reset button on esp32 before you upload your code
Basically I was facing the exact same problem fro quite some time. What worked for me was that as the chip was flashing, shifting the power wire from 5V to 3V3 pin. I do not know why but it workes. When esptool starts flashing at 2%, switching the cable just then, despite having 5V from supply into the 3V3 point made the flashing successful. I do realize this is probably a bad answer to your problem since it involves oversupplying voltage to the chip on the wrong point as it is flashing and could damage the chip. However, if anyone is tired of debugging and are at the point where you are considering throwing the chip away, might as well try my method. For other's who value their chip, don't try this method and if you still do, kniw it is at your own risk. But it worked for me after 3 days of just messing around with connections.

Intercepting a signal with ESP32/Arduino - resistor placement

I'm hacking a callbell to connect an ESP32 in order to send me a Telegram notification. The software side is OK but I'm having difficulty in detecting when the callbell goes off. When it is triggered, 5 LEDs flash. They are connected in parallel with +5V at the anode and via a 2K resistor into a pin on an unmarked IC.
Ideally, I'd solder a wire between the resistor and the IC to detect the falling edge but there is very little space. Between the LEDs and the resistor there is sufficient space to attach a lead but I can't make it trigger an interrupt. My question is, can I add my own 2K resistor between this lead and the GPIO pin?
circuit diagrams
Edit: managed to solder a lead between the resistor and the IC. Project deployed and works well. Thanks for your help
Yes you can. Just make sure your device has a common GND wit your ESP32. Also measure the voltage there and check the required resistor resistance..
EDIT: If I am right, this will connect GND to the digital pin, that should be pulled HIGH, then you can detect the GND.
Also connecting a transistor to switch 3.3V when gnd is given by the IC can be a good solution.

Esp32cam Failed to connect to ESP32: Timed out waiting for packet header

I've just recieved my very first esp32cam (AI THINKER) today and I was excited to test it, but I'm unable to upload any code to it. I'm always getting the following error:
Failed to connect to ESP32: Timed out waiting for packet header
So, the FTDI I'm using is the FT232r with the following wiring scheme
FTDI Wiring
How I reproduce this error:
Plug everything
Order IDE to upload the sketch
Wait for the "connecting" text
Press the RST button
Also:
Plug everything
Press the RST button
Order IDE to upload the sketch
I've already tried:
Switching to 3.3v (plugged on 3.3v pin)
Using external 5v power supply (plugged on 5v pin)
Using another computer
Swapping RX TX
Trying in different upload speeds
Holding RST button
Switching board between ESP32 Wrover Module and AI Thinker ESP32
I'm I doing something wrong or there's just something faulty?
I have delved for a solution in this regard for weeks and it seems I have a solution.
Findings-
FTDI module is probably faulty or not supported for each instance.
Aithinker Board is not compatible with esspressif (use ESP32Wrover, more details below )
I have an esp32cam from Esspressif, not Aithinker.
I was trying with FT232rl , No matter what Voltage/jumpers/USB cable I used, it didn't work. Always stuck with fatal timed out error.
After many futile attempts with FTDI breakout, I gave my Arduino UNO a try (please note my UNO has mega16u2 chip as USB serial chip (top right corner just beside the oscillator) and fortunately it worked.
I have read that CP2102 is also working.
**Here are the steps to follow-**
Arduino ESP32Cam connections
3.3 Arduino --------- 3v Esp32CAM
GND Arduino ------------ GND Esp32CAM
RESET Arduino to Ardunio GND
RX Arduino -------------- VOR Esp32CAM (this is not a mistake RX to rx & TX to tx)
TX Arduino -------------- VOT Esp32CAM
GPIO 0(zero)(written as IO0) Esp32CAM to GND Esp32CAM
I didn't have any need to press the reset button in any part of the operation before & during uploading.
I am assuming You have pre-installed the esp32 board manager.
Now select the correct COM port where your Uno (in this case) is
plugged in.
Select the correct board as mentioned
Tools>Board>ESP32 Arduino > select ESP32 Wrover Module
Some uploading setups are to be Done (Under Tools, these will only appear when the Wrover module is selected )
Upload speed -- 115200
Flash Frequency -- 40Mhz
Flash Mode -- QIO
Partition Scheme --- Huge App
Port ---- select the right com port for your breakout or UNO
JUST press upload and relax
After a while, you will be able to see this message
Leaving...
Hard resetting via RTS pin...
Disconnect the Esp32Cam GPIO 0 and GND
Power the ESP32Cam with 5/3v with external power supply (Arduino or other breakouts may not be able unless you are connected with a Powered USB Hub)
keep TX, RX, & GND of the 2 boards connected, don't disconnect Arduino Reset and GND.
Press Reset on ESPCAM and open Serial monitor and you will be able to see the IP address of the cam if it was configured with your wifi correctly.OR get any network scanner App on android or windows.
I hope it helped.
Pre-requisites for flashing:
ArduinoIDE 1.8.12
Core ESP32 1.04 (at time of writing)
Select board AI Thinker Cam
uplooad speed 921600
freq 240Mhz
flashfreq 80Mhz
mode QIO if not working try DIO
partition scheme default
Serial monitor is closed
NO hardware connected to the pins of the ESPcam
Make sure the USB cable is a data cable and NO loading cable only
check Windows device manager if programmer is shown and has max speed / 8n1 hardware
Connections
FTDI - ESP32
GND GND
5V 5V
TXD UOR
RXD UOT
If you use an AIThinker Cam clone you have to ground GIPO 0:
connect GPIO 0 with a dupont wire connected to GND
press reset
compile and upload (use AI THINKER CAM)
optional:
press reset
upload filesystem data (SPIFFS)
disconnect GPIO 0 and GND
press reset
code should execute
And yes you have to do it every upload, on my dev board I soldered a little switch with proper isolationSome more solutions from experience:
If there is still a problem use a 10K (or so) pull-down resistor between RX0 and GND (test on breadboard before soldering)
Pressing and holding (!) the boot-button while uploading on some "bad" boards
Happened with a "normal" ESP32 board to me - just to be sure - I got an ESP8266 in an ESP32 packaging. Configuring for the ESP8266 solved the issue of uploading.
In my case I forgot to remove the SD card. Other users recommended removing unnecessary connections to the pins-- and the SD card technically uses some of those :)
This was solved by using other jumpers. It seems one of the jumpers used in the wiring was faulty.
If you're having the same issue and tried everything in this post, try checking your cables!
Another solution here. Just to add, I tried everything on this QA, as well as many other things suggested online. e.g. tested by powering from 3.3V then 5V, various permutations of holding the reset button down and disconnecting IO00 from GND at the point of flashing. Changing various settings in Arduino IDE/
I was unable to flash a single one of the 5 ESP32-CAM boards I bought. Spent a good two hours on it. I even continuity tested every pin on the board to its ESP32 chip pad, and all the hookup wires were tested too. The board seemed fine.
Then I soldered a 100uF capacitor between 5V and GND, and used my USB-UART 5V power... tested and worked straight away. No need to pull out the IO00->GND connection and no need to press RST button on the board during flashing. (Of course, pull out IO00->GND after flashing complete.
So - it was a power problem.
I can only guess that the cheapo regulator they used on the copy of board that I got was not quite efficient enough, but basically that capacitor resolved the issue.
p.s. the ESP on board was marked "ESP32-S". I selected "AI Thinker ESP32-CAM" in Arduino IDE as suggested by most people online, and this worked.
There are 3 pins marked GND on the ESP32-CAM board. Buuuuut (!) the one marked GND/R just by the U0T is NOT connected to other grounds or anywhere else I could had find. Check with a multimeter and use a REAL GND. It just worked for me after days of puzzling.
If you try it with arduino it works but its needed to press reset button on esp32 before you upload your code
Basically I was facing the exact same problem fro quite some time. What worked for me was that as the chip was flashing, shifting the power wire from 5V to 3V3 pin. I do not know why but it workes. When esptool starts flashing at 2%, switching the cable just then, despite having 5V from supply into the 3V3 point made the flashing successful. I do realize this is probably a bad answer to your problem since it involves oversupplying voltage to the chip on the wrong point as it is flashing and could damage the chip. However, if anyone is tired of debugging and are at the point where you are considering throwing the chip away, might as well try my method. For other's who value their chip, don't try this method and if you still do, kniw it is at your own risk. But it worked for me after 3 days of just messing around with connections.

Where are the ISCP pins on this arduino uno r3?

I just got a dragino yun shield. To connect it to my arduino uno it says I have to 'shortcut' the pins next to the reset button. http://wiki.dragino.com/index.php?title=Yun_Shield#Connect_to_Arduino_Uno
However my arduino does not have those pins.
img:
Btw I thought I didn't have to do this because before I successfully ran a blink sketch over wifi. When I tried to do this again it returned this error:
avrdude: AVR device not responding
avrdude: initialization failed, rc=-1
Double check connections and try again, or use -F to override
this check.
On your picture the only ISCP connectors seem to be on the right.
On a normal UNO it also has a set of them next to the reset which is most probably for the smaller extra atmega (programmer) on the normal UNO. As you can see the one on the right is to program the ATMega328p chip directly which I thought is what you may want but after I looked at the Yun page you listed I realized that it might not be what you want. It seems that you might have to remove resistors and LED as with "Connect to Dccduino UNO R3" on the Yun page. The best advice would be to see if you can get the schematic for your specific Uno and see how that compares to other boards.
The idea is to remove a few connections between the USB chip and the ATmega328P microcontroller. More specifically, you want to remove the two serial line connections and the one to the reset pin.
To do that via resistor removal, you need to figure out what each resistor does, but It's tricky without having the schematics of your board. What you can do is can grab a multimeter and do this:
Put the multimeter in continuity test mode.
Check which resistors are connected to the RX an TX pins in the Arduino header and remove them.
Check which resistors are connected to the RESET pin in the Arduino header. Measure their resistance, and remove the one with the lower resistance.
Alternatively, just removing the CH340G chip altogether might also do the trick.

GSM Module code Not Working On GSM breakout board

I'm in a situation and need some advice.
Scenario 1:
Arduino Uno/Genuino +
ICOMSAT SIM900 Module(http://www.itead.cc/icomsat.html)
(placed the jumpers such that Digital Pin 2 is rx and 3 is TX on the shield)
Code Used: The send receive SMS example code in the arduino website.(
(https://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/GSMExamplesReceiveSMS)
Everything Works fine without a glitch.
Scenario 2:
Arduino Uno/genuino +
GSM breakout board(https://www.google.co.in/search?q=sim900A&espv=2&biw=1600&bih=717&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAWoVChMIqd748qb8yAIVYXumCh2s2Aaq#tbm=isch&q=sim900a+gsm+module&imgdii=9zJcFQBaoLAKzM%3A%3B9zJcFQBaoLAKzM%3A%3B7eDw6qGc3qZjMM%3A&imgrc=9zJcFQBaoLAKzM%3A)
Had loads of issues with softwareSeial.h library and ended up cross connecting the default on board rx/tx with GSM board's RX/TX and everything worked fine. (though I didn't liked the fact that everytime during programming I had to change connections to upload a sketch)
code used is from here (http://www.theengineeringprojects.com/2014/06/send-sms-with-arduino-uno-and-sim900d-using-at-commands.html)
Now my Problem:
Since the shields are very costly, I decided to settle on the cheaper boards for my project. But the Code used for the GSM shield was so easy to understand (since the library was doing all the heavy lifting) I tried to use that. I connected Rx of GSM board to pin 3 and TX to pin 2 of arduino and uploaded the same code I used for the GSM shield scenario. But the code won'r work, I tried to tinker a few blocking things like the enable pin code where the shield is brought up etc. but no luck. Can anyone put some light on it, has this been tried before, is it not supposed to work the was i want it to ?
Thanks a lot in advance.

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