I have some old relays that controlls an hydraulic motor.
I want to control it with my Arduino. Is this possible?
The relays used are:
DIL 00 52 from klockner moeller.
this is the situation:
I have experience with the arduino but not that much about electrical schemas?
Is there someone that can help me?
Is this equipment functional now?
The part you have pictured looks like it is for an engine lathe, not a pump.
The amount of rust in the box and corrosion on the overloads and relay would make me think that it has run either outdoors, or in a corrosive environment for quite a while with the door open. Why would you run it with the door open?
Because you have to continually reset the overload and or adjust the timer, or tap on the contacts to get them to engage. Either way, this thing is a mess.
The relays you have shown will interface easily with your arduino, but I WOULD NOT replace what's in the cabinet with these.
The set up in this cabinet is for three phase power. The one on top is the main contactor, and the two side by side units are for reversing the motor. Something you don't want to do with a pump.
My advice to you is to find an electrician before going any further with the power end of this project.
it is possible but probably that relay won't fit the load.
You have to be sure to use relay that can sustain at least the same load and spike current (and voltage), or you many bad thing may happen, like melting togheder the relay contact or burn your house down.
i can't see the code on the relay in the second picture, neiter you had given the load information, so i can't help you more.
Related
First Thanks in advance.
Is there a way for an Arduino board to detect what other boards are attached (such as infrared, or servo motor etc) or simple things such as led or push buttons? Basically is there a way to do Plug N Play?
I would like to design a system using an Arduino were the user can mix and match infrared sensors, motors, led. The script would recognize what is attached to the board and respond accordingly. Currently one is forced to hard code in the script identifying what pin is attached to what. Hence if the user pulls out a servo motor and adds an infrared, then the script must be rewritten. This is what I want to avoid.
Thanks.
You started with
user mix and match sensors, motors, led. The script would recognize
what is attached
and later added
Arduino for model railroads, to dynamically add servos, lights and
sensors
These are not the same, narrowing the scope makes all the difference. See my comment for first option. As for building a specific model that will recognize elements, sure, this can be done in couple of ways depending on the topology you intend to implement and in that case the main concern should be:
How will elements/nodes be connected to each other and / or the main board?
If you intend to run seperate wires for each element you could identify them by dedicating one wire for ID and use a different resistor on each, That's complicated and limited and I wouldn't do that.
On the other end you could create a parallel bus that runs from node to node and can be extended as needed, it will have a small number of wires that will implement I2C for instance, and for identification but also as local drivers you would add an ATtiny on each node.
I currently have firmware that can reach an average deep sleep current of ~130uA. I can reach this level reproducibly on one of the boards I have.
successful deep sleep
Trouble is, when I try to clone this chip onto other chips using the nRF Programmer (Connect) app, I get extremely high power consumption, average of ~20mA at all times, seems the device doesn't reach deep sleep properly. Tried this on several other boards, so I don't believe it's simply a problem of something shorting. Strangely, the application just runs fine, the current is just several times normal for the same functionality.
unsuccessful deep sleep
Does anyone have any ideas on how I can truly clone the flash of one device, onto another? Clearly the "save as file" on nRF Connect isn't doing this. Erasing all and reuploading, starting from a blank chip and writing,
FYI I'm using the nRF52840 module by Raytac (MDBT50Q), implemented on a custom board. This board SHOULD be capable of going down to ~33uA, which I have observed in the past with this very board. By some combination of erasing all, reprogramming, setting the 3.3V logic level(nrfjprog --memwr 0x10001304 --val 5), etc,
For posterity, I did actually find the solution! For anyone else in a similar boat to me, the winning command is:
nrfjprog.exe --readcode --readuicr --readram [filename.hex]
Apparently, the --readram was the winning flag, as without it the sketch simply doesn't run at the same current consumption for whatever reason. But now, I can reproducibly image and transfer identical firmware, which was what I was after.
I'm trying to get arduino uno to sequentially extract liquid from each of four chambers to a main chamber using solenoid vales, flowmeter, level sensors, and a centrifugal pump. process being open main tank solenoid valve, open valve one, extract quantity one, close valve two, delay 1 second, open valve two....
Does anyone know the best way to go about programming this? I have no coding experience outside of mathematic analysis. Trying to get it directly in the Arduino IDE. I'm also at the same time checking liquid levels and controlling temperature.
You should do one step at a time. Your project is pretty ambitious as a first project.
I would suggest going first for some small examples like letting a LED blink, using a button etc. to get a feeling for the IDE and C syntax.
When you feel confident enough with basic programs you can progress. I'd suggest to go one sensor/actuator at a time. Trying to communicate with it and verifying the data.
But keep in mind this won't be just a coding project but there will be a substantial mechanical/electrical part. Especially when dealing with liquids there are a ton of different hose diameters, voltage levels, etc.
You have to work out how to power the pump and valves safely, because the Arduino board can't handle greater currents.
If you really want to go into this project, you surely can. But keep in mind that this won't happen in a week. To get this working properly you probably will have to invest months and educate yourself not only on the programming side, but also on the electrical side.
I have an Arduino starter set, which came with both an active and a passive buzzer. Unfortunately, I can't seem to know which is which. All I know is that one is a little longer than the other one, on which I can see the green circuit board underneath.
An active buzzer generates the sound itself. You basically just turn it on or off.
A passive buzzer needs a signal source that provides the sound signal.
To find out which is which you can measure the resistance between both leads. If it is a few Ohms its the passive one, higher values indicate an active one.
Also the active one will have it's own circuitry (the pcb you can see) and will therefor be probably bigger.
But I guess your arduino package comes with a parts list that should give you all information you need?
"Programatically" speaking:
Active Buzzer: using a simple digitalWrite(buzzerPin, HIGH) will turn the beep on, once it has a internal oscillator.
Passive Buzzer: you need to use Tone() function in order to make it beep. Once it has no internal oscillator you need to use Tone() function to create the frequency it will oscillate. Check the Tone() reference page to learn how to use it, but is quite simple, you just need to enter as parameter pin and frequency like Tone(3, 440), will generate a 440Hz on passive buzzer hooked up to pin 3.
To stop a active buzzer you need to use digitalWrite(buzzerPin, LOW), while with a passive buzzer you need to use noTone(passiveBuzzerPin).
How to distinguish passive buzzer and active buzzer?
There are several ways to distinguish passive buzzer and active buzzer.
The most simple method is to watch their different appearances.If you can see a drive board,it is passive buzzer.If the buzzer is completely covered by black adhesive,it is active buzzer.
https://www.keliking.com/Differences-Between-Passive-Buzzer-and-Active-Buzzer-id570060.html
They come in all shapes and sizes, so don't assume "long" means one thing or another. The passive buzzer has only a small piezo on the module's PCB. An active buzzer will have a couple other small components on the pcb, like an amp and resistor(s).
In the Freenove Arduino kit that i bought, the passive buzzer is the one with the green on the bottom and the active is the one without, and is slightly taller with varied hights of the pins
Physical distinction between the two.
Slight disclaimer first. . . the buzzers I have are from one of those 27 piece sensor kits. For me it was an extra buy from "30 Days Lost In Space". After my pieces all got mixed together, I've decided to lay them all out & know what each one does. Yours may be different
Here's what I observed. If you have the connections down and the buzzer away from you so you're looking at the back of the board There are solder points. The upper left solder point is filled on the active buzzer. note don't count the larger mounting hole on the very edge. In the photo, I've highlighted the filled solder hole on the active buzzer.
highlighted solder point on active buzzer -- left vs passive buzzer -- right
I had this same question, which led me here. The other answers were helpful in and of themselves, but I noticed the difference after testing, and hopefully someday this may help someone else who may be new, as I am now.
I've been at arduino just shy of 2 weeks.
I am making a balloon cut off mechanism using Arduino. The Arduino uses GPS data to find the height of the balloon. So when a certain height is reached it has to allow current to pass through a nichrome wire to burn the nylon rope.
How do I use Arduino to act as a switch? That is, when a condition is reached, Arduino has to allow current to pass through. Can it be done using Arduino?
Is there a digital switch I can buy and control via Arduino? My search gave me suggestions to use a Triac. Is there a easier way?
Not really a SO question... but I've used this TIP-120 circuit in many projects with success. It's tolerant of abuse (handles high current, etc) and easy to put together with parts from Radio Shack costing a few dollars. (for your usage, the diode is not required).
Turning it on is as simple as digitalWrite(pinNum, HIGH);
Personally, I would use a mechanical solution as a release mechanism rather than trusting the vagaries of heating at high altitude and the higher power reqs.