I have ATMEL ICE C initial connection problems - it cannot read device signature, because of the target board voltage isn't between range of 1.8 to 5.5V. It has measured by the Atmel Studio as 1.3V (when target board is powered by the USB connector) or 0.3V (when USB disconnected from target).
It'a a brand new device, and i never used it before, may be i did something wrong?
I had used before AVR ISP handmade by myself, and had used previously programmed target board for this experiment, to avoid possibility, that board is dead. The target is works and blinking heart beat.
What i has done -
1.Connect the target board to the ICE programmer.
2.power target board by USB.
3.power programmer by USB from PC USB port.
4.open "device programming" tab in AS 7.
5.Make all settings for my chip atmega328p
6.press "apply" then 'read'
7.get err msg that voltage is too low.
(while i had measured it directly, by the digital voltmeter on pins +5V and GND on target
board, it's about 4.5V, same as in ISP connector - measured on 2 and
6 pins.)
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#markus-nm where did you take your measurements?
i had measured on pin 2 and 6 of ISP connector and between pin +5V and GND on Arduino Nano board.
What reference was used?
i had used GND pin on target board for the reference.
Did you use the same USB Host for ISP and power?
no, power to target board was from the wall socket USB charger, AND power to Atmel ICE is from personal computer.
If not, did you connect the grounds?
no, but i guess that grounds are already connected on the target board.
Some links to your chip, your board and ISP would be helpful.
ATMEL-ICE-C https://www.microchip.com/en-us/development-tool/ATATMEL-ICE
ARDUINO NANO PRO https://store.arduino.cc/products/arduino-nano
If it's a custom PCB, provide some schematics. Show a wiring diagram of what you did.
no, i had used the standard Nano board (may be not original, but clone, but it is definitely working now, because it can be programmed by the AVRDUDE program and work.)
The Atmel-ICE, by design, has a lot of different ways to hook up the programming connector. Often when I see problems like this it's because the wrong connector is used. Keep in mind the programmer itself has both an AVR and a SAM port. For the Arduino Nano Pro, make sure it's plugged into the AVR port. After that, ensure you're using the correct programming connector on the adapter board that comes with the Atmel-ICE and that it's oriented correctly on the Nano's header.
If that all fails then something is broken.
Related
I am building a device and need to use a USB Nordic ID rfid reader. I have a Spark-fun USB host card (V9947), and now need the firmware to allow be bi directional chat in a 'rs232' style serial... just as if it were a hardware or software serial port on the Arduino.
Nordic support have reassured me that their library and examples for the Arduino are normally used with readers with RS232 ports, however the same code will work with their smaller USB device if I can overcome the USB/serial barrier.
I have the library and examples for the USB host board, but cannot determine which example code resembles my requirement requirement, I have looked through the library and found no answer there either.
This could be down to personal stupidity/ignorance... however never been this stumped before. the internet does not seem to have an answer, documentation and support for this board are at best meager.
I hope someone here has managed to solve what should be a simple mission, and I can get on with this project.
Thanks Ian
As not knowing what you already have done, I'll make a walk through the complete setup. Please check(do) each point evenif you think its done already:
Soldering and hardware have no shorts
pin headers of the shield are soldered with no shorts
USB Jack of Arduino is isolated on the top to prevent shorts
With the SparkFun board, it seems like you MUST supply external power on Vin or the barrel jack. 5V from the USB cable will not work reliable.
You must also run a jumper from pin D7 to RESET.
For the board (SparkFun DEV-09947) set up – these are mandatory pre-requirements.Now the software
The code/drivers you need to use for this board are on this GitHub page.
There is a diagnostic test which is extremely useful for checking wether your board is working correctly. Do as follows:
Upload this sketch to your Arduino, then open the Serial Monitor to see the diagnostic info.
To see the output set your Serial Monitor terminal speed to 115200
Plug in your hardware into the USB of the shield
Reset the Arduino to start the diagnostic
Step 1 – you’ll see it recognize the board and start a transfer test
Step 2 – you’ll see it attempt to test the GPIO pins – you’ll get “GPIO test failed” message. Type something in the box at the top of the Serial Monitor, then hit “Send” button and the diagnostic test will continue.
Step 3 – you should see it cycle through a bunch of resets, then it will attempt to detect an USB device – as we have a device plugged into the USB port on the shield you should then see some summary info with a final message of “All tests passed”
So NOW we know the hardware is working and basic software is running.
Next step driver installation/test program for the Nordic
Get the library from here
Import NurMicroApi_arduino.zip to IDE. From menu: Sketch->Include library->Add .ZIP library...
Open example. From menu: File->Examples->NurMicroApi->NurExample
Change baudrates and sw serial pins to match your arduino HW In this example NUR module is connected to arduino via software serial pin 10 (RX) and pin 11 (TX) with baudrate 38400. HW serial is used as print output.
You may have to change this to the USB card connections (see diag-SW)
As an easier option you can use the HID parser to check if your NUR is recognized If that works take a working exmple like:
Working HID example and try to read a tag then start coding with the NUR example from above if values are not correct interpreted
If you want to use the "pure" at-Terminal (RS-232) style you have to get rid of the usb shields functions (lib) and write your own Arduino firmware based (=overcome the USB/serial barrier) on the nordic-api (well documented) Hope this gets you started
I have borrowed an Arduino BT-V06 (analogue) from my college IT storage department.
At home I am trying to do some research on this for subsequent work I am going to perform with this Arduino later on. As this model is a 2006 version; my question is, how do I connect it to my laptop? Some sort of adapter? or perhaps shield it with a newer model that has a usb-port?
Because I would like to have it connected to my laptop in order to try out some codes on it.
Thank you very much for your time!
-M
There's at least two options. First, it's set up to be programmed over Bluetooth. So if you have Bluetooth on your laptop, you can connect the two wirelessly. Pins 0 and 1, per the documentation, are TTL serial transmit and receive pins (which are also used for Bluetooth communications), so if you AREN'T connecting via Bluetooth, you could connect a serial to USB adapter so you can connect to your laptop via USB. This reference has this to also say:
"The on-board serial communication between the bluetooth module and the Arduino sketch (running on the ATmega328) needs to be at 115200 baud (i.e. call Serial.begin(115200) in your setup() function). Communication between the bluetooth module and the computer can be at any baud rate.
Communication between the BT module and the computer can be temperamental. You might want to open the serial monitor a couple of seconds after resetting the board. The text of the Arduino getting started guide is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 License. Code samples in the guide are released into the public domain."
I'm working with a driver board which communicates with a PC program via USB -> FTDI -> TX/RX into the microcontroller. The serial pins are not broken out on the board and I need to talk to the board from another microcontroller (like Arduino). My plan is to just solder directly to the RX/TX pins on the microcontroller despite the fact that the FTDI is powered on and RX/TX of the FTDI will be electrically connected to those pins. I will not be transmitting anything via USB. My assumption is that the FTDI chip will be passive and I can just drive those pins from my Arduino.
Will this cause me any issues? I'm just concerned if the FTDI passively drives those pins low or high, I'll get "smoke" if I follow through with my plan. Perhaps I should put some resistors on my Arduino's RX/TX just as a safeguard.
It's very possible some of my logic is flawed here. Thanks in advance for your advice!!
Cheers
You need to check with the particular FTDI chip you're using on that board.
Some FTDI chips support RS485 and because of the required multidrop capability they operate as open-drain allowing to connect multiple devices.
Even if this solves your hardware problem, you still need to consider how the (live) FTDI chip may respond to your 'unexpected' incoming (RX) data stream. For example, possible XON/XOFF flow control appearing on TX especially since there won't be a consumer from the PC side and the internal FTDI buffers will eventually fill up.
I have the Arduino UNO board and I want to know if it is possible to use both the USB connection (for exchanging data) and the external jack to power supply it.
I will use the following cable: http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41OMXaj5cPL.SY355.jpg with a AC-DC 5V adaptor in order to power supply the Arduino. However, I want to use also the USB connection in order to send some data from the computer.
Both will be connected at the same time.
In short, I want the Arduino to be able to run even if the computer is OFF and whenever I open the computer to send data to Arduino from USB connection.
Is this possible? Will the Arduino Uno board support it?
Yes. From the official Arduino website:
Power
The Arduino Uno can be powered via the USB connection or with an external power supply. The power source is selected automatically.
External DC power will override USB power if the Arduino detects it. [Source]
as other said, it is absolutely possible to have both usb and power jack plugged in.
but be aware that if you shut down your computer and turn it on after, when reading the usb port you'll restart the Arduino and might loose important data.
yeah both of them can be used. If you want to upload the code in arduino then simply use the usb cable otherwise keep it on adapter. it wont harm the device.
What I personally do is, I keep on plugging the adapter and remove the usb once I am done with uploading and then test it as normally the usb cable is quite small and I normally work on robots so I need long wires.
if you want just plugs it in, it's ok but Arduino board will chose one and usb has priority to other power source.
********* Very important :*****
if you are controlling other circuits, that are connected to an external power supply, with your Arduino and connecting it to your PC's usb, Arduino will have potential difference and it will cause current flow that will damage your PC and Arduino board. if you want to do such thing, you have to shield your Arduino board from your other circuits that you want to control and they have external power source. this could happen with optocouplers for digital ports, non signal analog ports with shield relays, and complex analog circuits for analog signals
Can run simple programs on Arduino without any elese connected. However the minute I add any sensor (eg gas sensor) or module (eg ENC28J60). the usb serial port on device manger disapears.
Actually anything coonected to Vcc (5 v or 3.3V) and ground of the Arduino Nano Mega 328 causes this problem.
I tried changing borad to Mega 168 etc, but same issue.
A couple of things come to mind:
Ground loops. Using a meter (DVM et al) check for a difference in potential between the ground of the USB bus and the ground of the Arduino. Check both AC and DC settings. You shouldn't see much more than millivolts, but if you do - it needs to be fixed.
If you're using one of those el-cheapo 2-prong wall-wart style power supplies, be aware that a lot of them have some serious ripple on them as they're not generally well filtered. Connecting the (-) negative terminal on the output of those to your USB bus can give you all kinds of fun. And not the kind you'd want. Adding a 0.01uF capacitor between Vcc and ground at the power supply output feed will help with filtering noise.
If the device is powered exclusively by the USB port, know that the 2.0 specification only provides for about 500ma (2.5W). If you have other USB devices hanging off the same bus, your current draw may overload and result in the bus shutting down that port.
Don't mix 3.3VDC components with 5.0VDC components. In other words, if you have a 3.3V bus, attaching the bus or driving something requiring 5.0VDC won't work. You need a converter to go between 3.3V powered devices and those running on 5.0V
Many gas sensors require significant current - it sounds like you're running it off the USB port and I suspect that this is what is causing your crash.