On Adafruit there was an example on how to connect a ledstrip to an arduino, but it said "For longer strips requiring more than 1A, wire power directly to the strip, then run power and ground wires back to the Arduino." I didn't fully understand it so i made a sketch on circuits.io . Since there isn't a normal ledstrip in there i used a RGB to show my sketch, but i can't test it. So before i fry my arduino or ledstrip can someone explain if this is correct or if it needs to be changed? Also can i connect everything on a breadboard or not, since the higher voltage and amp.
https://i.gyazo.com/27e9a6527805b6e4e898a8f32f66de61.png
That would work.
I believe this is the same as this https://learn.adafruit.com/rgb-led-strips/usage
about the breadboard it really depends on the breadboard they can vary from cheap ones 0.5A to 2A is usually the maximum current rating for a good solderless breadboard
Here are what you need:
Your Arduino.
An external power supply. Get something like this for your external power suply.
You led strip.
Connect:
PWM pulse of Arduino -> Data IN of led strip
All GND togheters
5V output of external power supply-> VCC of led strip
Computer -> USB -> Arduino
External power supplies give you high current levels, perfect for many leds. Dont worry about your breadboard melting, it should be able to handle it.
Related
I am working in a project which requires me to read the velocity of a DC motor with a quadrature encoder. I am using the Arduino UNO board and for some weird reason the motor just works if it is connected to the pins 2 and 3. However this pins are reserved for the interruption (where I intended to connect the encoder). How could I solve this problem?
Assuming the arduino can provide enough current, you should be able to run the motor from any output pin, check out this diagram for reference. You should also make sure you have the necessary protection circuits in place. This is a good starting point: https://create.arduino.cc/projecthub/licensedGeek/controlling-a-dc-motor-from-an-arduino-101-board-f4954b
I am having a hard time troubleshooting this project build of mine. I am trying to utilize a DS18B20 temperature sensor in conjunction with an ESP8266 to create a temperature beacon.
The problem I'm running into pertains to the data interpreted by the ESP8266. I am using the Arduino IDE to program the HUZZAH ESP8266 breakout.
The WiFi client is behaving as supposed to, but the temperature sensing is not. When I upload the same sketch to an Arduino Mega2560 (recompiled obviously), and plug the data line into a digital pin of the 2560, the probe temps come in perfectly, changing according to the temp. If I unplug the data lead, I get -196.80, what I assume is a ground value.
Simply moving the data line into the ESP8266 pin, I receive a temp of 262.29 and this does not change in between reads, regardless of sensor temperature.
I have ensured all of the cables are wired properly, there is no weird grounding or anything. I have tried changing the baud rate of the serial interface maybe thinking the clock had something to do with it, but that seems to have affected nothing.
Any idea/direction is always appreciated!
I have wired the circuit according to a diagram located at this link here.
Here is a Gist to the code that I have been uploading to the ESPs. The code is designed to setup a WiFi Client (attached to a local AP, which works totally fine), request the temps, and submit up to a host that has a listening server. The pin (2) refers to GPIO2 on ESP8266 [i think]
So I found A solution to this. I'm not sure if this particular problem has been replicated for everyone, however, in my situation, the parasitic power on the data line was not charging the IC enough to finish the proper calculation.
All I had to do was unground the VDD pin and hook it up to the 5V rail. Leave the 4.7kOhm resistor on the data line also pulled up to the 5V rail. After doing so, the program reports PARASITIC POWER: OFF, and reports temperatures as I hoped!
I changed my post above to include a working solution!
The DS18B20 device can operate in 2 power modes (normal and parasitic). In the case of parasitic power, the VDD pin is jumped to GND and the IC receives power from the data line that is connected back to a micro-controller.
An interesting quality of the DS18B20 is the power draw during temperature sensing. While operating in parasitic mode, the host device needs to be able to supply the IC with enough power to complete the calculation, otherwise the device will return a bad answer.
The solution for me (using an Adafruit HUZZAH ESP8266 micro-controller) was to not use parasitic power. I cannot say for sure what the problem with this setup is, however, when configuring the circuit in normal mode, the probe worked as expected. I imagine the data line isn't getting enough power.
To change the circuit from the diagram linked above:
Remove the jumper between VDD and GND pins
Connect VDD to 5V rail
Keep GND to GND rail
Keep 4.7kOhm resistor pulling data line up to 5v rail
I'm working a little project where I make my own version of serial communication between 2 arduino megas using their digital I/O pins.
So there are a couple digital pins on arduino A that are set as output. These are plugged into two digital pins in arduino B which are set as input. Is there a way for arduino B to detect whether the output pins coming from arduino A are high or low?
I know this can be done with transistors, but is there a way to do it without them?
The digital pins from one Arduino can be connected directly to the digital pins on the other - no need for any transistors in between. Make sure there is a common ground between them so both boards are at the same reference level (connect the GND pins, or power both from the same supply).
You can read the digital pins on the receiving end by calling digitalRead(), and write to the digital pins on the sending end by calling digitalWrite(). Whatever protocol you implement will need to detect the high/low transitions and decode them accordingly.
I guess I'm curious why you wouldn't just use the built-in serial ports to communicate, unless this is just a learning exercise? Certainly worthwhile for learning, but unnecessary extra work otherwise...
So, I'm building an Arduino toy car. It runs with 4 motors and has 2 color sensors and 8 IR sensors. It must work on battery because i don't want it to be hooked to USB all the time and motors require much more current than USB can provide. So here's the problem...
When I have my arduino powered with USB cable or USB cable and battery, it works perfectly, but when I have it powered only on battery (7.2V), 4 LED's in the left color sensor glow dimmer, and the right one doesn't even work.
I should point out that some of the pins of color sensor that should be plugged in 5V or GND are plugged in digital output pins set on HIGH or LOW.
The arduino i'm working on is Arduino Mega 2560 and color sensors are TCS230.
I think you should measure supply current of the board and then check if your battery is able to provide such value. Also try to feed the board from external supply through wall adapter connector (or Arduino's Vin terminal). The idea is that you may need higher voltage and(or) current, then 7,2V.
Check to make sure you have the correct resisters values in place to drive the LEDs. You can sometimes get away without doing so but it is iffy and you can sink a lot of current you don't really need to. I found this link, "Driving LEDs with an Arduino".
I am using a 1 channel relay module for arduino uno r3 like this(the picture shows 2 relay module but i only use one relay for one bulb), http://www.geeetech.com/wiki/index.php/2-Channel_Relay_module.
The bulb is 220V.I connected my arduino pins, D13,Ground,and VCC to relay module's pin; Input,Ground,and 5v.I also cut my bulb's wire to connect it on my relay's pin: NC,NO,COM.One cut end of the bulb was attached to the COM and The other is to NO.The other wire of the bulb leaved uncut.The source of the bulb is Direct current.
I uploaded the Blinking codes in arduino uno r3.
After uploading the code, Relay module followed the arduino's code which is blinking.The thing was, The bulb wont follow.I also tried dis arranging some wires but nothing happens.
I read some of the articles that would possibly solve my problems.I found out that they are using SSR.Is this really needed?and what could I do to make the bulb follow the arduino's codes.
I need Help. Please..help me
If your relay is being energized then that side of the wiring is good, it's something on the other side that is wrong.
The output of a relay does not provide power, it is just a switch. You need to create a circuit that goes from power, through the relay, through your lamp, and back to power. If you connect to COM & NO then the lamp lights when the relay is energized; if you connect instead to COM and NC then the lamp lights when the relay is not energized.
The diagram on that relay site is a little misleading. For your purpose, try running the light bulb from the +5V pin on the Arduino, to the NO relay contact terminal on the relay board, and then grounding the COM relay contact terminal. This should work assuming:
1.) Your wiring TO the relay board is correct AND sufficient enough to operate the relay, specifically, you can hear it "click" every time the Pin 13 goes LOW/HIGH from the Blink sketch.
2.) The 220V rated bulb can actually operate at 5V.
If the bulb needs more than 5V, simply replace the wire going from the bulb to the +5V pin, with a higher voltage battery (make sure you attach the negative terminal of that battery to one of the Arduino Gnd pins).
The wiring diagram contains a lot more information than you need.
The relay module has a TTL interface - VCC, GND and one signal per relay to switch it on/off. These you should connect to the coresponding pins on your arduino(as you probably did).
Each of the relays have three screw terminals
When you switch the relay ON, two of those terminals will be connected through the relay NO-COM
When you switch it off, the relay will disconnect the other pair and connect COM-NC
The relay works as a switch, the lightbulb will be connected to the power as normal, but one of its wires(NOT the ground for safety reasons!) will be interrupted and the ends connected to the relay terminals.
BTW:
Both the relay and lightbulb are limited in how fast they react to switching, the relay takes time to switch(cca 3 - 20 ms) and the lightbulb has a large thermal inertia. If you are trying to blink really fast(more than lets say twice per second, you might have problem with that.
SSR are useful mainly for fast switching(normal relays have a limited speed) and should have longer lifetime, you can use it(it usualy has a 5V control input), but it seems pointless for a lightbulb.
220V light bulb will not operate on 5V
Could you explain
The source of the bulb is Direct current.
Power plug 220V is actualy AC.
What is actualy happening? Is the lightbulb ON or OFF permanently? Is it blinking in some wrong way?