I am having a hard time troubleshooting this project build of mine. I am trying to utilize a DS18B20 temperature sensor in conjunction with an ESP8266 to create a temperature beacon.
The problem I'm running into pertains to the data interpreted by the ESP8266. I am using the Arduino IDE to program the HUZZAH ESP8266 breakout.
The WiFi client is behaving as supposed to, but the temperature sensing is not. When I upload the same sketch to an Arduino Mega2560 (recompiled obviously), and plug the data line into a digital pin of the 2560, the probe temps come in perfectly, changing according to the temp. If I unplug the data lead, I get -196.80, what I assume is a ground value.
Simply moving the data line into the ESP8266 pin, I receive a temp of 262.29 and this does not change in between reads, regardless of sensor temperature.
I have ensured all of the cables are wired properly, there is no weird grounding or anything. I have tried changing the baud rate of the serial interface maybe thinking the clock had something to do with it, but that seems to have affected nothing.
Any idea/direction is always appreciated!
I have wired the circuit according to a diagram located at this link here.
Here is a Gist to the code that I have been uploading to the ESPs. The code is designed to setup a WiFi Client (attached to a local AP, which works totally fine), request the temps, and submit up to a host that has a listening server. The pin (2) refers to GPIO2 on ESP8266 [i think]
So I found A solution to this. I'm not sure if this particular problem has been replicated for everyone, however, in my situation, the parasitic power on the data line was not charging the IC enough to finish the proper calculation.
All I had to do was unground the VDD pin and hook it up to the 5V rail. Leave the 4.7kOhm resistor on the data line also pulled up to the 5V rail. After doing so, the program reports PARASITIC POWER: OFF, and reports temperatures as I hoped!
I changed my post above to include a working solution!
The DS18B20 device can operate in 2 power modes (normal and parasitic). In the case of parasitic power, the VDD pin is jumped to GND and the IC receives power from the data line that is connected back to a micro-controller.
An interesting quality of the DS18B20 is the power draw during temperature sensing. While operating in parasitic mode, the host device needs to be able to supply the IC with enough power to complete the calculation, otherwise the device will return a bad answer.
The solution for me (using an Adafruit HUZZAH ESP8266 micro-controller) was to not use parasitic power. I cannot say for sure what the problem with this setup is, however, when configuring the circuit in normal mode, the probe worked as expected. I imagine the data line isn't getting enough power.
To change the circuit from the diagram linked above:
Remove the jumper between VDD and GND pins
Connect VDD to 5V rail
Keep GND to GND rail
Keep 4.7kOhm resistor pulling data line up to 5v rail
Related
I am having a problem with bluetooth interfering with my 433Mhz receiver. It is important that I have these modules next to each other, but when I have the bluetooth on, the rf module doesnt receive anything.
Rather crudely, I stuck an LED between the receivers Data and Ground lines, just to see what was going on.The LED blinked a lot when my HC06 was plugged in, and the LED went off when the HC06 was unplugged.
I also did the same thing with an LED over the rf transmitters data and ground lines, and the led showed that it was transmitting something when I pressed the button which is what i need.
There shouldn't be any interference between these two as far as I am aware because they use vastly different frequencies. I got confused a lit whilst programming it so it may be a programming error, but I doubt it.
I am using an arduino nano and the Bluetooth module is plugged wired as rx to 0(tx) and and tx 1(rx) and the data from the rf receiver is plugged into D11 because that's what the Radiohead library expects.
Thanks in advance
On Adafruit there was an example on how to connect a ledstrip to an arduino, but it said "For longer strips requiring more than 1A, wire power directly to the strip, then run power and ground wires back to the Arduino." I didn't fully understand it so i made a sketch on circuits.io . Since there isn't a normal ledstrip in there i used a RGB to show my sketch, but i can't test it. So before i fry my arduino or ledstrip can someone explain if this is correct or if it needs to be changed? Also can i connect everything on a breadboard or not, since the higher voltage and amp.
https://i.gyazo.com/27e9a6527805b6e4e898a8f32f66de61.png
That would work.
I believe this is the same as this https://learn.adafruit.com/rgb-led-strips/usage
about the breadboard it really depends on the breadboard they can vary from cheap ones 0.5A to 2A is usually the maximum current rating for a good solderless breadboard
Here are what you need:
Your Arduino.
An external power supply. Get something like this for your external power suply.
You led strip.
Connect:
PWM pulse of Arduino -> Data IN of led strip
All GND togheters
5V output of external power supply-> VCC of led strip
Computer -> USB -> Arduino
External power supplies give you high current levels, perfect for many leds. Dont worry about your breadboard melting, it should be able to handle it.
I have a ESP8266 wifi module connected to an arduino uno. On the ESP8266 I set up a socket server witch is working fine. And I can communicate with it as I expect.
After having run the ESP8266 some time (like 5-10 minutes) it automatically turns off (or goes into some kind of sleep mode. The LED turns off). I then have to re power the whole thing and reset it using the reset pin.
Why is my ESP8266 turning off and disconnecting from the WIFI?
Maximum current draw from this voltage regulator on the Arduino Uno is 50 mA. It's surely not enough for ESP8266.
You need a power supply with at least 700 mA to make sure it works properly (ESP8266 usually takes about 60 mA but according to my experience the current draw can be very high during the startup).
Can run simple programs on Arduino without any elese connected. However the minute I add any sensor (eg gas sensor) or module (eg ENC28J60). the usb serial port on device manger disapears.
Actually anything coonected to Vcc (5 v or 3.3V) and ground of the Arduino Nano Mega 328 causes this problem.
I tried changing borad to Mega 168 etc, but same issue.
A couple of things come to mind:
Ground loops. Using a meter (DVM et al) check for a difference in potential between the ground of the USB bus and the ground of the Arduino. Check both AC and DC settings. You shouldn't see much more than millivolts, but if you do - it needs to be fixed.
If you're using one of those el-cheapo 2-prong wall-wart style power supplies, be aware that a lot of them have some serious ripple on them as they're not generally well filtered. Connecting the (-) negative terminal on the output of those to your USB bus can give you all kinds of fun. And not the kind you'd want. Adding a 0.01uF capacitor between Vcc and ground at the power supply output feed will help with filtering noise.
If the device is powered exclusively by the USB port, know that the 2.0 specification only provides for about 500ma (2.5W). If you have other USB devices hanging off the same bus, your current draw may overload and result in the bus shutting down that port.
Don't mix 3.3VDC components with 5.0VDC components. In other words, if you have a 3.3V bus, attaching the bus or driving something requiring 5.0VDC won't work. You need a converter to go between 3.3V powered devices and those running on 5.0V
Many gas sensors require significant current - it sounds like you're running it off the USB port and I suspect that this is what is causing your crash.
I am using a 1 channel relay module for arduino uno r3 like this(the picture shows 2 relay module but i only use one relay for one bulb), http://www.geeetech.com/wiki/index.php/2-Channel_Relay_module.
The bulb is 220V.I connected my arduino pins, D13,Ground,and VCC to relay module's pin; Input,Ground,and 5v.I also cut my bulb's wire to connect it on my relay's pin: NC,NO,COM.One cut end of the bulb was attached to the COM and The other is to NO.The other wire of the bulb leaved uncut.The source of the bulb is Direct current.
I uploaded the Blinking codes in arduino uno r3.
After uploading the code, Relay module followed the arduino's code which is blinking.The thing was, The bulb wont follow.I also tried dis arranging some wires but nothing happens.
I read some of the articles that would possibly solve my problems.I found out that they are using SSR.Is this really needed?and what could I do to make the bulb follow the arduino's codes.
I need Help. Please..help me
If your relay is being energized then that side of the wiring is good, it's something on the other side that is wrong.
The output of a relay does not provide power, it is just a switch. You need to create a circuit that goes from power, through the relay, through your lamp, and back to power. If you connect to COM & NO then the lamp lights when the relay is energized; if you connect instead to COM and NC then the lamp lights when the relay is not energized.
The diagram on that relay site is a little misleading. For your purpose, try running the light bulb from the +5V pin on the Arduino, to the NO relay contact terminal on the relay board, and then grounding the COM relay contact terminal. This should work assuming:
1.) Your wiring TO the relay board is correct AND sufficient enough to operate the relay, specifically, you can hear it "click" every time the Pin 13 goes LOW/HIGH from the Blink sketch.
2.) The 220V rated bulb can actually operate at 5V.
If the bulb needs more than 5V, simply replace the wire going from the bulb to the +5V pin, with a higher voltage battery (make sure you attach the negative terminal of that battery to one of the Arduino Gnd pins).
The wiring diagram contains a lot more information than you need.
The relay module has a TTL interface - VCC, GND and one signal per relay to switch it on/off. These you should connect to the coresponding pins on your arduino(as you probably did).
Each of the relays have three screw terminals
When you switch the relay ON, two of those terminals will be connected through the relay NO-COM
When you switch it off, the relay will disconnect the other pair and connect COM-NC
The relay works as a switch, the lightbulb will be connected to the power as normal, but one of its wires(NOT the ground for safety reasons!) will be interrupted and the ends connected to the relay terminals.
BTW:
Both the relay and lightbulb are limited in how fast they react to switching, the relay takes time to switch(cca 3 - 20 ms) and the lightbulb has a large thermal inertia. If you are trying to blink really fast(more than lets say twice per second, you might have problem with that.
SSR are useful mainly for fast switching(normal relays have a limited speed) and should have longer lifetime, you can use it(it usualy has a 5V control input), but it seems pointless for a lightbulb.
220V light bulb will not operate on 5V
Could you explain
The source of the bulb is Direct current.
Power plug 220V is actualy AC.
What is actualy happening? Is the lightbulb ON or OFF permanently? Is it blinking in some wrong way?