I'm working on a project where we want to disable the three infrared LED's built into our Leap Motion controller so we can instead track an external infrared LED. We plan on determining the XYZ coordinates of this LED by applying triangulation to images pulled from our the controller's two sensors. I fear the functionality may be built into the board. Might it be possible to turn these three infared LED's off, while still being able to use the two sensors?
There's no way to turn the illuminator LEDs off through the API, config files or command line parameters. I'm not sure you need to, though. Have you tried seeing how visible your LED is under normal operating conditions? A small circle of retroreflective tape can also be used to create an easily visible dot in the sensor images.
If not, your only recourse might be to disable the LEDs physically. You would want to do that in a reversible manner, though, so that you could still recalibrate the sensors. Sparkfun did a teardown of a Leap Motion device, which shows how you might approach this task.
Related
First Thanks in advance.
Is there a way for an Arduino board to detect what other boards are attached (such as infrared, or servo motor etc) or simple things such as led or push buttons? Basically is there a way to do Plug N Play?
I would like to design a system using an Arduino were the user can mix and match infrared sensors, motors, led. The script would recognize what is attached to the board and respond accordingly. Currently one is forced to hard code in the script identifying what pin is attached to what. Hence if the user pulls out a servo motor and adds an infrared, then the script must be rewritten. This is what I want to avoid.
Thanks.
You started with
user mix and match sensors, motors, led. The script would recognize
what is attached
and later added
Arduino for model railroads, to dynamically add servos, lights and
sensors
These are not the same, narrowing the scope makes all the difference. See my comment for first option. As for building a specific model that will recognize elements, sure, this can be done in couple of ways depending on the topology you intend to implement and in that case the main concern should be:
How will elements/nodes be connected to each other and / or the main board?
If you intend to run seperate wires for each element you could identify them by dedicating one wire for ID and use a different resistor on each, That's complicated and limited and I wouldn't do that.
On the other end you could create a parallel bus that runs from node to node and can be extended as needed, it will have a small number of wires that will implement I2C for instance, and for identification but also as local drivers you would add an ATtiny on each node.
I'm trying to find a fitting module/component for a project, but have a hard time finding the right thing.
I need a PWM module/component that can provide a PWM signal and can be controlled via Arduino, preferably TX/RX.
I've used this one previously, and it works great, but it is bulky due to the screen and buttons which I don't really need.
It would be perfect to find the same module but without the screen and buttons.
What it needs to do:
Duty cycle 0-100%
Frequency 1-10 kHz
5 V preferably
Communication via tx/rx or other Arduino compatible protocol
1-2 channels
As small as possible
I've seen some Adafruit modules, but they have at least 16 channels which is not necessary. Would also work, but if I can find an even smaller alternative that would be great.
Any suggestions?
(And no, the Arduino's PWM signals do not work in my case.)
The standard Arduino analogWrite() can't do what you want without trickery, but most Arduino hardware can, so there's no real need for a separate PWM IC or module; you just need to code the Arduino's MCU's timer peripheral to do what you want.
You can do that "by hand", but I would try first to see if an alternative library like TimerOne can get you the PWM you specify. For SAMD21-based Arduinos there is this library (that I wrote), among others.
If you insist on having a separate module for your PWM, just google around (modules exist, but recommendations are not done here), or simply use a second Arduino of your choice as a dedicated PWM generator.
I have an Arduino starter set, which came with both an active and a passive buzzer. Unfortunately, I can't seem to know which is which. All I know is that one is a little longer than the other one, on which I can see the green circuit board underneath.
An active buzzer generates the sound itself. You basically just turn it on or off.
A passive buzzer needs a signal source that provides the sound signal.
To find out which is which you can measure the resistance between both leads. If it is a few Ohms its the passive one, higher values indicate an active one.
Also the active one will have it's own circuitry (the pcb you can see) and will therefor be probably bigger.
But I guess your arduino package comes with a parts list that should give you all information you need?
"Programatically" speaking:
Active Buzzer: using a simple digitalWrite(buzzerPin, HIGH) will turn the beep on, once it has a internal oscillator.
Passive Buzzer: you need to use Tone() function in order to make it beep. Once it has no internal oscillator you need to use Tone() function to create the frequency it will oscillate. Check the Tone() reference page to learn how to use it, but is quite simple, you just need to enter as parameter pin and frequency like Tone(3, 440), will generate a 440Hz on passive buzzer hooked up to pin 3.
To stop a active buzzer you need to use digitalWrite(buzzerPin, LOW), while with a passive buzzer you need to use noTone(passiveBuzzerPin).
How to distinguish passive buzzer and active buzzer?
There are several ways to distinguish passive buzzer and active buzzer.
The most simple method is to watch their different appearances.If you can see a drive board,it is passive buzzer.If the buzzer is completely covered by black adhesive,it is active buzzer.
https://www.keliking.com/Differences-Between-Passive-Buzzer-and-Active-Buzzer-id570060.html
They come in all shapes and sizes, so don't assume "long" means one thing or another. The passive buzzer has only a small piezo on the module's PCB. An active buzzer will have a couple other small components on the pcb, like an amp and resistor(s).
In the Freenove Arduino kit that i bought, the passive buzzer is the one with the green on the bottom and the active is the one without, and is slightly taller with varied hights of the pins
Physical distinction between the two.
Slight disclaimer first. . . the buzzers I have are from one of those 27 piece sensor kits. For me it was an extra buy from "30 Days Lost In Space". After my pieces all got mixed together, I've decided to lay them all out & know what each one does. Yours may be different
Here's what I observed. If you have the connections down and the buzzer away from you so you're looking at the back of the board There are solder points. The upper left solder point is filled on the active buzzer. note don't count the larger mounting hole on the very edge. In the photo, I've highlighted the filled solder hole on the active buzzer.
highlighted solder point on active buzzer -- left vs passive buzzer -- right
I had this same question, which led me here. The other answers were helpful in and of themselves, but I noticed the difference after testing, and hopefully someday this may help someone else who may be new, as I am now.
I've been at arduino just shy of 2 weeks.
I have some old relays that controlls an hydraulic motor.
I want to control it with my Arduino. Is this possible?
The relays used are:
DIL 00 52 from klockner moeller.
this is the situation:
I have experience with the arduino but not that much about electrical schemas?
Is there someone that can help me?
Is this equipment functional now?
The part you have pictured looks like it is for an engine lathe, not a pump.
The amount of rust in the box and corrosion on the overloads and relay would make me think that it has run either outdoors, or in a corrosive environment for quite a while with the door open. Why would you run it with the door open?
Because you have to continually reset the overload and or adjust the timer, or tap on the contacts to get them to engage. Either way, this thing is a mess.
The relays you have shown will interface easily with your arduino, but I WOULD NOT replace what's in the cabinet with these.
The set up in this cabinet is for three phase power. The one on top is the main contactor, and the two side by side units are for reversing the motor. Something you don't want to do with a pump.
My advice to you is to find an electrician before going any further with the power end of this project.
it is possible but probably that relay won't fit the load.
You have to be sure to use relay that can sustain at least the same load and spike current (and voltage), or you many bad thing may happen, like melting togheder the relay contact or burn your house down.
i can't see the code on the relay in the second picture, neiter you had given the load information, so i can't help you more.
I am making a balloon cut off mechanism using Arduino. The Arduino uses GPS data to find the height of the balloon. So when a certain height is reached it has to allow current to pass through a nichrome wire to burn the nylon rope.
How do I use Arduino to act as a switch? That is, when a condition is reached, Arduino has to allow current to pass through. Can it be done using Arduino?
Is there a digital switch I can buy and control via Arduino? My search gave me suggestions to use a Triac. Is there a easier way?
Not really a SO question... but I've used this TIP-120 circuit in many projects with success. It's tolerant of abuse (handles high current, etc) and easy to put together with parts from Radio Shack costing a few dollars. (for your usage, the diode is not required).
Turning it on is as simple as digitalWrite(pinNum, HIGH);
Personally, I would use a mechanical solution as a release mechanism rather than trusting the vagaries of heating at high altitude and the higher power reqs.