In my Arduino project I have a 12v motor which I would like to power using a Qualcomm external Battery. These Battery packs indicate that they supply 12v through a Usb type A cable around 2 amps. I want to solder a usb type B connector but not sure if that will work? I am new to this so I'm trying to find docs on how to wire this or if it even makes sense to do this?
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I have ATMEL ICE C initial connection problems - it cannot read device signature, because of the target board voltage isn't between range of 1.8 to 5.5V. It has measured by the Atmel Studio as 1.3V (when target board is powered by the USB connector) or 0.3V (when USB disconnected from target).
It'a a brand new device, and i never used it before, may be i did something wrong?
I had used before AVR ISP handmade by myself, and had used previously programmed target board for this experiment, to avoid possibility, that board is dead. The target is works and blinking heart beat.
What i has done -
1.Connect the target board to the ICE programmer.
2.power target board by USB.
3.power programmer by USB from PC USB port.
4.open "device programming" tab in AS 7.
5.Make all settings for my chip atmega328p
6.press "apply" then 'read'
7.get err msg that voltage is too low.
(while i had measured it directly, by the digital voltmeter on pins +5V and GND on target
board, it's about 4.5V, same as in ISP connector - measured on 2 and
6 pins.)
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#markus-nm where did you take your measurements?
i had measured on pin 2 and 6 of ISP connector and between pin +5V and GND on Arduino Nano board.
What reference was used?
i had used GND pin on target board for the reference.
Did you use the same USB Host for ISP and power?
no, power to target board was from the wall socket USB charger, AND power to Atmel ICE is from personal computer.
If not, did you connect the grounds?
no, but i guess that grounds are already connected on the target board.
Some links to your chip, your board and ISP would be helpful.
ATMEL-ICE-C https://www.microchip.com/en-us/development-tool/ATATMEL-ICE
ARDUINO NANO PRO https://store.arduino.cc/products/arduino-nano
If it's a custom PCB, provide some schematics. Show a wiring diagram of what you did.
no, i had used the standard Nano board (may be not original, but clone, but it is definitely working now, because it can be programmed by the AVRDUDE program and work.)
The Atmel-ICE, by design, has a lot of different ways to hook up the programming connector. Often when I see problems like this it's because the wrong connector is used. Keep in mind the programmer itself has both an AVR and a SAM port. For the Arduino Nano Pro, make sure it's plugged into the AVR port. After that, ensure you're using the correct programming connector on the adapter board that comes with the Atmel-ICE and that it's oriented correctly on the Nano's header.
If that all fails then something is broken.
Got this board cheap from Banggood, but there are minimal details on how to use it.
There is a manual here https://www.gitbook.com/book/smartarduino/user-manual-for-2-way-motor-16-way-servos-shield/details , but it is a long way from detailed, and what I need are some details on how to drive the I2C PWM servos.
After some poking around, I have a partial answer.
The Adafruit libraries seem to work fine for the servos.
https://learn.adafruit.com/16-channel-pwm-servo-driver/using-the-adafruit-library
Motors on this version of the board have the following controls:
D6 PWMB - speed channel B
D7 DIRB - Direction Channel B
D8 PWMA - Speed Channel A
D9 DIRA - Direction Channel A
... which may explain why the speed control is working on channel B but not A, since pin 8 is not PWM on a UNO. (May also explain why it is cheap)
Also note that you need to supply a separate 5V to 18V power to the VS connector to drive the servos. I used a 6v battery pack.
Also note that the on-board power switch did not appear to affect power to servo, so a power switch for the servo power is probably also useful.
External power source is required only at VM & GND terminals if jumpers are shorted both at VM+VIN and VS+5V, VM will have the same voltage as input power and VS (servo voltage) will be 5V derived from VM input, not from UNO board. That is what the user manual means by single power source, which input is at VM terminal. OPEN all the jumpers will need individual power source for VM and VS separately.
I have borrowed an Arduino BT-V06 (analogue) from my college IT storage department.
At home I am trying to do some research on this for subsequent work I am going to perform with this Arduino later on. As this model is a 2006 version; my question is, how do I connect it to my laptop? Some sort of adapter? or perhaps shield it with a newer model that has a usb-port?
Because I would like to have it connected to my laptop in order to try out some codes on it.
Thank you very much for your time!
-M
There's at least two options. First, it's set up to be programmed over Bluetooth. So if you have Bluetooth on your laptop, you can connect the two wirelessly. Pins 0 and 1, per the documentation, are TTL serial transmit and receive pins (which are also used for Bluetooth communications), so if you AREN'T connecting via Bluetooth, you could connect a serial to USB adapter so you can connect to your laptop via USB. This reference has this to also say:
"The on-board serial communication between the bluetooth module and the Arduino sketch (running on the ATmega328) needs to be at 115200 baud (i.e. call Serial.begin(115200) in your setup() function). Communication between the bluetooth module and the computer can be at any baud rate.
Communication between the BT module and the computer can be temperamental. You might want to open the serial monitor a couple of seconds after resetting the board. The text of the Arduino getting started guide is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 License. Code samples in the guide are released into the public domain."
Can run simple programs on Arduino without any elese connected. However the minute I add any sensor (eg gas sensor) or module (eg ENC28J60). the usb serial port on device manger disapears.
Actually anything coonected to Vcc (5 v or 3.3V) and ground of the Arduino Nano Mega 328 causes this problem.
I tried changing borad to Mega 168 etc, but same issue.
A couple of things come to mind:
Ground loops. Using a meter (DVM et al) check for a difference in potential between the ground of the USB bus and the ground of the Arduino. Check both AC and DC settings. You shouldn't see much more than millivolts, but if you do - it needs to be fixed.
If you're using one of those el-cheapo 2-prong wall-wart style power supplies, be aware that a lot of them have some serious ripple on them as they're not generally well filtered. Connecting the (-) negative terminal on the output of those to your USB bus can give you all kinds of fun. And not the kind you'd want. Adding a 0.01uF capacitor between Vcc and ground at the power supply output feed will help with filtering noise.
If the device is powered exclusively by the USB port, know that the 2.0 specification only provides for about 500ma (2.5W). If you have other USB devices hanging off the same bus, your current draw may overload and result in the bus shutting down that port.
Don't mix 3.3VDC components with 5.0VDC components. In other words, if you have a 3.3V bus, attaching the bus or driving something requiring 5.0VDC won't work. You need a converter to go between 3.3V powered devices and those running on 5.0V
Many gas sensors require significant current - it sounds like you're running it off the USB port and I suspect that this is what is causing your crash.
I like to build a project to make my gardening work smarter! My goal is to measure soil temperature, soil water content, light intensity and also taking a picture, and then wirelessly upload these datasets to a webpage. I can also control the irrigation system (turn on/off the pump switch) via the webpage.
These sensors are anagogic! However, the Raspberry Pi Face (PiFace) Digital Interface is only able to take care of digital signals. The PiFace comes with the relaies, which is pretty handy for a startup project. I just like to get some premade boards and ensemble them easily without too work.
Can I layer up a Raspberry Pi board, an Arduino bridge shield, an Arduino board and a PiFace (or a relay board) without wiring?
I really need a recommended "shopping list" to start with. What should I choose?
I suggest you try following the steps outlined in Arduino and the Raspberry Pi.
I agree that you should involve an Arduino as your conduit to the outside world. Then do a simple serial connection between the two. If you get any Arduino except for the new Due, you have got to get from 5 V (Arduino) to 3.3 V (Raspberry Pi). I'd suggest Sparkfun's Logic Level converter.
Sparkfun also has a good light sensor, TEMT6000 Breakout Board.
While you're there, you can grab a couple of thermistors to measure temperature, Thermistor 10K.
Also, Make did an article on almost exactly what you intend on doing (from the Arduino side), Microcontroller-assisted gardening.
On the Raspberry Pi side, Pygame will give you a huge head-start on connecting to the Arduino and taking webcam shots. A Halloween Sound Trigger with Raspberry Pi and Arduino should get you started.
According to what you describe, you may achieve this with only an Arduino UNO, an Ethernet Shield, sensors (at least temperature and light) and a cheap CMOS camera.
If you want to take advantage of the two worlds (Raspberry with Arduino I/O capabilities), you may also consider the Raspberry Pi to Arduino shields connection bridge from Cooking-Hacks: they provide both library and tutorial to start with.